An excellent article on Sabah.
http://www.theepochtimes.com/n2/life/nature-and-nurture-in-sabah-malaysia-293630.html
Nature and Nurture in Sabah, Malaysia
By George Fu
Epoch Times Staff
Created: September 18, 2012
Last Updated: September 23, 2012
The Rafflesia, one of the largest flower in the world (Sabah Tourism Board)
As my plane descended over a dreamy view of lush tropical islands,
strings of white sandy coasts, and the sapphire-blue South China Sea, my
attention was momentarily fixated on a structure from afar.
In this part of the world, home to one of Mother Nature’s oldest
rainforests (130 million years old), a large structure was seen
glittering under the afternoon sun, nestling alongside pea-green paddy
fields, and a partially obscured mountainous range.
After a candid inquiry about what that structure was, the flight
attendant presented me a surprised yet composed glance. “It’s Kota
Kinabalu Terminal 1,” she said. “We will be touching down shortly, sir.
Kindly hoist your seat upright to prepare for landing.”
Realizing my folly as a city-bumpkin, I buckled the seatbelt and
began my maiden trip to this exotic East Malaysian terrain called
Sabah.
Ambushed by headhunting tribesmen; living on treetops; and seeking
shelter in caves. These were all the laughable notions I had about
Sabah, which were vaporized the instant I stepped afoot its modern Kota
Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA).
Climbathon on Mt Kinabalu (the higest mountain in Southeast Asia (Sabah Tourism Board)
Kota Kinabalu
Serving more than 70 international flights per week,
Kota Kinabalu International Airport ( KKIA) is the second busiest
airport in Malaysia next to Kuala Lumpur International. Its central
locality allows flights from regional cities such as Singapore, Hong
Kong, and Taipei to reach Kota Kinabalu directly in about three hours.
Located some 8 km from KKIA, Sabah’s state capital Kota Kinabalu is a
modern city cradled between turquoise-blue waters and the lush
undulating plains. About 90 minutes away sits the highest mountain in
Southeast Asia, Mount Kinabalu, which is a popular destination for
adventurous tourists aiming to climb the 20th tallest mountain in the
world.
Kota Kinabalu (affectionately called KK by the locals) is also the
state’s main administrative and business center, with a population of
about 610,000 people. Culturally diverse, Sabah has over 30 different
ethnic races with Bahasa Melayu being the most spoken language among its
80 dialects.
Eco-treasures
Popularly known as The Land Below the Wind, Sabah was bestowed the
title for her geographical position under the typhoon belt, which sets
the state free from climatic disturbances. Occupying the northern
portion of the Borneo Island (the third largest island in the world)
Sabah is the second largest state of Malaysia, after its neighbor
Sarawak.
Beneath the wind in this diverse rainforest, aquatic and eco-related
activities thrive all year round. Visitors travel thousands of miles to
this Promised Land to experience Mother Nature’s unrivaled splendor,
including some of the world’s most beautiful dive sites, pristine
corals, and the richest wildlife region in Southeast Asia.
The Borneo Bird Festival
The complex beauty of Sabah’s lowland rainforest has unceasingly
lured avid bird watchers, wildlife photographers, and documentary
filming crew from all over the world. There are some 620 resident and
migratory species of birds found in the wild, including the rare Bornean
Ground Cuckoo, Golden-naped Barbet, and all eight species of hornbills.
Hornbill (photo Sabah Tourism Board)
Lately, the statewide effort to conserve its rich habitat and
ecosystem has yielded commendations from wildlife organizations
worldwide. The Borneo Bird Festival, an annual event held at the
Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC) in Sepilok, Sandakan, this year, is
now a rendezvous for international bird observers and enthusiasts. Since
its inception three years ago, wildlife experts and scientists from
renowned universities have graced the event to conduct workshops and
talks to nature lovers and share knowledge on birds, conservation,
wildlife photography, and nature-based tourism.
Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre
While the thrill of sighting rare Proboscis Monkeys,
Clouded Leopard, Borneo Pygmy Elephants, or Bornean Orangutans in the
wild heightens your wildlife experience, a visit to the Orang Utan
Rehabilitation Centre in Sepilok was equally an eye-opener. Orangutans
here are trained to adapt and to eventually return to the wild, once
these critically endangered primates learn the necessary survival
skills, such as the ability to socialize and search for food. For a
couple of ringgit and some luck, you may spot them swinging from tree to
tree high above the nature trail you are walking along or during their
daily feeding hours at the feeding platform.
Family River Cruise (Photo Sabah Tourism Board)
Night Safari River Cruise
River cruise—and particularly night river cruise—is
very much an integral component of wildlife observation in Sabah.
Documenting wildlife along Kinabatangan (Sabah’s longest river) in the
stillness of dusk is such a phenomenal experience. Under an endless
blanket of sparkling stars, our boat inched intimately close to
nocturnal animals ranging from Slow Loris, Kingfishers, and Wallace’s
flying frogs.
In practical darkness, all six tourists, including the two Canadians
sitting behind me, sat dumbfounded as our guide from Sukau Rainforest
Lodge beamed his searchlight to spot far away birds and animals by the
riverbank. His night-vision-enabled eyesight served us well that night.
We spotted other nocturnal animals including an owl, baby crocodile,
monitor lizard, and various species of birds.
Gomantong Caves inside the Sabah Parks Forest Reserve, dwelled by some 2 million bats (photo George Fu)
Gomantong Caves
I vividly recall a fresh distinctive smell when on a late afternoon
trip to the Sabah Parks forest reserve to witness birds nesting inside
the Gomantong Caves.
As we tracked some 20 minutes through the rainforest to the cave
entrance, the initial coffee bean aroma turned out in fact to be “bats
poo poo,” described Fernando, my tour guide for that day.
“You better not talk or open your mouth when you look up the caves,” he said, before adding “you didn’t bring a cap, George?”
Bypassing tribes of Long-tailed macaques feasting on fruits at the
cave’s entrance, we took a bamboo pole and tracked cautiously into the
dim Gomantong Caves. The cave system is home to massive populations of
resident bats, swiftlets, cockroaches, crabs, and creepy crawlers.
According to Fernando, bats and swiftlets co-exist in the caves—while
the bats leave the caves to search for food every evening, the swiftlets
would in turn begin their journey back to the caves after a day of
foraging.
Despite the stench, which had caused an earlier batch of tourists to
throw up, I felt somewhat acclimatized and amazed by what nature has
offered. The interior has a strange mystical charm. The lime-green
boulders, penetrative ceiling light forming an opening above, and the
faint orchestrated resonance by the cave’s inhabitants left a deep
impression in my memory.
I politely declined Fernando’s suggestion that I spend a night there
together with the cave protectors, to get the real experience of
Gomantong Caves. Seriously, sleeping with more than 2 million bats
spiraling above, even for one night, is no joking matter for a city
dweller, and I’m glad nothing landed on my head during my hour-long
exploration.
Water Sports
Snorkeling in the crystal-clear waters of
Sabah is a popular water sports for regional and international tourists
(photo -- Sabah Tourism Board)
Sun-kissed beaches, emerald-green waters, and offshore coral reefs
have popularized several dive sites in Sabah, which now rate among the
best in the world. Aquamarine activities like scuba diving, underwater
photography, and parasailing seem to be the favorites among European
vacationers and neighboring tourists from Taiwan, Japan, and Korea.
Located 15 minutes by speedboat from Kota Kinabalu, a beautiful
island named Pulau Manukan is a hotspot for water sports. Popular among
tourists from Singapore and Peninsular Malaysia, Pulau Manukan (which
means Chicken Island in a local slang) is the second largest and most
developed island out of the five that formed the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park
(TARP). Beyond its fine sandy shore, activities such as ocean kayaking,
jet skiing and scuba-dooing (an underwater scooter with breathing
apparatus) rein the crystal clear waters that surround the island.
World’s richest marine diversity
The sandy seabed of TARP has enriched a variety of
marine lives such as scorpion fish, blue-spotted rays, cuttlefish,
mantis shrimps, and the occasional green or hawksbill turtle. At some
locations, rare creatures such as the harlequin ghost pipefish and
mandarin fish can be spotted especially with the help of local dive
guides. If you are lucky, you may witness the presence of whale sharks
(the world’s largest fish) during cooler months from November to
February.
Turning the tide on marine conservation
While marine tourism in Sabah has gained increasing
popularity as a major attraction (boosting the state’s tourism
industry), joint efforts by the local authorities and industrial players
have taken precedence lately to protect the world’s richest marine
habitat from recreational and fishing-based activities, such as
reef-walking, the use of explosives, and waste discharging.
Gayana Resort
Hermit crab in the Marine Ecology Research Centre, at Gayana Eco Resort (George Fu)
An island-hop from Pulau Manukan to Pulau Gaya has broadened my
understanding and appreciation of marine conservation. Known for
conducting educational programs and projects for schools in marine
conservation, the island’s Gayana Eco Resort owns an on-site Marine
Ecology Research Centre (MERC) that aims to restore vibrancy to once
damaged ocean floors.
The research center propagates endangered giant clams, restores coral
reefs, and allows guests to actively participate in their conservation
programs. One program includes clam induced spawning to repopulate the
diversity of giant clams—giant clams are one of the many marine species
to have demised around Sabah in recent years.
MERC holds The Malaysia Book of Records as the first center in
Malaysia to have successfully spawned all the seven species of giant
clams found in Malaysian waters, and its effort was shared at the World
Congress of Malacology 2010.
Another program allows participants to transfer replanted fragile
corals from stabilizing tanks in the coral growth nursery to the sea.
Being replanted and stabilized a week earlier in the tank, these corals
would be ready for a second chance in the sea.
Popular Accommodations
Some of the region’s most beautiful resorts and
hotels can be found in Kota Kinabalu. Popular ones include the
Shangri-La’s Rasa Ria Resort (voted Best Hotel for Leisure Facilities in
Asia, Condé Nast Traveler Gold List (UK) 2009; Nexus Resort & Spa
Karambunai (known for its award-winning spa and 18-hole championship
golf course); and Le Meridian, with its exclusive Club lounge
overlooking the esplanade and popular Philippine night market.
If you were expecting a marvelous surprise, spend at least two nights
at the Sukau Rainforest Lodge, some two and a half hours from Sandakan
by boat. The 20 rooms, multi-international award winner is managed by
Borneo Eco Tours. According to Borneo Eco, the lounge was built in 1995
in traditional Malaysian architecture using several Borneo hardwood
species.
Retail Therapy
Kota Kinabalu has seen the arrival of new shopping malls in the
city’s most popular shopper’s stop on Gaya Street. Here you can hunt for
modern and traditional items such as wooden carvings and boutiques.
With a variety of shops, including a multitude of eateries and
restaurants, combined with boutiques, jewelry stores, and computer
shops, Kota Kinabalu is a popular shopping and hangout destination. Some
popular shopping malls in KK include Centre Point, City Mall, and the
latest Suria Sabah (located by the promenade).
For tourism information go to:
http://www.sabahtourism.com/sabah-malaysian-borneo/en/
